Grocheau Cellars, Ensemble - 2023

Fast Facts:

Winemaker(s): John Grochau
Region: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Varietal(s): Pinot Noir, Skin-Contact Pinot Gris, Gamay, Trousseau, Auxerrois
Terroir: Multiple organically and sustainably farmed sites across the Willamette
Serving Temp: 50–60°F

Before John Grochau became one of Oregon's most beloved small-production winemakers, he was a sweet young cyclist racing professionally through France. Returning to Portland, John turned to fine dining and spent the better part of fifteen years working in restaurants, most notably as a sommelier at Higgins. Feeling the pull toward wine production is a common thread for many restaurant folks, John started apprenticing at Erath Winery and then making wine at Brick House Vineyards, a treasured Oregon organic estate. All of this led to his 2002 launch of Grochau Cellars.

John runs a négociant model, sourcing from 19 different Willamette Valley sites, all farmed organically or sustainably, which gives him incredible range and flexibility. His production space in Amity has also become an incubator for a new generation of small Oregon producers, including Redolent, Arabalis, and Mendivia who all operate out of his facility.

Okay okay, so this label specifically is not a normal one for John, and in fact he made Ensemble exclusively for the Quebec market in partnership with a Canadian distributor. It's packaged specifically for the SAQ, Quebec's government liquor board, hence the French. When those pesky US-imposed tariffs came about, Canada retaliated by targeting American alcohol. The SAQ delisted all American products immediately, and suddenly John and his/our distributor were sitting on a huge amount of unsold wine with nowhere to go. It's a sad story playing out across Oregon right now, with a lot of smaller winemakers relying on Canadian restaurants and wine shops, with their already-thin margins facing real uncertainty. So last month, our distributor hit us up and asked if we were interested in clubbing a cool Grochau with a French Canadian back label. My favorite things. Win-win in a lose-lose situation, and we're very excited to have this in your allotment for the month!

The wine itself is a dreamy, springtime red that rides the line perfectly between a light red and a deep rosé in a very charming way. Pinot Noir makes up just over half the blend, skin-contact Pinot Gris adds a third, and small amounts of Gamay, Trousseau, and Auxerrois make up the rest. It's like Burgundy's Passetoutgrains with a little orange wine energy from the skin-contact Gris.

Why'd we pick it?

John built an entire career around making honest, unpretentious Oregon wine. He is a real inspiration in the demystification of the this commonly pretentious attitude towards an agricultural product. This ethos really shows in all of his wines, and Ensemble is such a pure expression of that ethos. Additionally this whole fuckery of tariffs and Canada absolutely rejecting it, it feels like a good thing to hold and promote during such turmoil.

Field Notes

• Tastes like: Crunchy red fruit and rose petal. Fresh and lively on the palate with light tannins, punchy acidity, and a bit of herbal lift.
• Serve it: Fridge door wine! Keep it cool and it's ready to rock.
• Food pairings: An early evening spring salad with bitter greens, salty cheese, candied walnuts, and a light citrus vinaigrette feels like my tops in this moment. Or pan King salmon with an herby-dijony-cream and topped with fresh tarragon. Oohhh la la