Atacalco, Cárabe de Itata - 2024
Fast Facts:
Winemaker(s): Ricardo Baettig & Carlos Spoerer
Region: Cerro Verde → Itata Valley → Chile
Classification: Valle del Itata DO
Varietal(s): Semillon, Moscatel
Terroir: Sandy granite soils, cool humid climate, dry-farmed old vines
Serving Temp: 55-60°F
You met Ricardo and Carlos last year through their Casablanca Pinot Gris, and this is the other half of what Atacalco is. And if Casablanca was Ricardo's terrain (which I think is fair to say it is as he's worked the coastal vineyards since the '90s) then Itata is most certainly Carlos's. His family has held land in this valley for generations, and the fruit here comes from Cerro Verde, a granite hillside long considered one of Itata's finest spots for white grapes. The valley gets close to a meter of rain a year, so these 70-year-old vines have never been treated with extra irrigation and rely purely on the rain.
The primary grape here is Semillon, which is a comeback story in its own right. It was one of Chile's most widely planted whites until the industry moved on and all but forgot it. It turns out that old-vine Semillon left alone on granite for seven decades can turn into something spectacularly waxy and mineral forward. A little Moscatel rides shotgun, also grown right in the same plot and interplanted among the Semillon.
Everything goes into Italian terracotta amphora from Tava, Semillon and Moscatel co-fermenting together for five-ish months on the skins to extract that amber color and serious tannic grip. Then the wine rests in that same amphora on its lees before bottling, lending that extra body and soft creaminess.
Why'd we pick it?
Old vines, dry farming, interplanted grapes, buddies making wine together, what's not to love? And this type of production of orange wine brings out exactly what we loooooove about the category: deep extraction, gorgeous color, punchy, playful and yet also kind of serious.
Field Notes
- Tastes like: Honey, beeswax, VERY ripe peach, and a savory herbal punch. Firm tannins, to boot!
- Serve it at 55-60°F. Throw it in the fridge for a good 20 minutes.
- Food Pairings: Fatty fish, like halibut - give it a nice sear and serve it with a cherry-tomato and caper relish because it's SUMMER. On that note, a caprese with those peak-July tomatoes, good olive oil and mozz ... or any opportunity to eat a soft fresh chèvre with cornichons and crusty bread. Or, smoke a whole chicken and grill off some peaches with a simple arugula salad.
