Patrice Colin, Pierre François - 2024

Fast Facts:

Winemaker(s): Patrice Colin
Region: Thoré-la-Rochette → Coteaux du Vendômois AOC → Loire Valley → France
Varietal(s): Pineau d'Aunis, Pinot Noir, Gamay
Terroir: Flint and clay-limestone soils, south facing slopes, cool climate
Serving Temp: 55-60°F

The Coteaux du Vendômois is a small AOC in the western Loire Valley, all of 142 hectares, tucked along the banks of a river called the Loir. Not a typo, I promise, it's in fact different than the Loire. (The Loir is a smaller tributary that runs roughly parallel and constantly gets confused with its more famous neighbor.) Patrice Colin has spent his career as one of its quieter champions, the eighth generation to grow grapes in Thoré-la-Rochette, on land his family has worked since the early 1700s.

Patrice farms 25 hectares organically, with over 150 different plant species sharing space with the vines, a cool polyculture move. The local hero is Pineau d'Aunis, an ancient grape variety with deep roots in the Loir tributary valleys and carries a naturally black peppery character. And by peppery character, I mean literally "rotundone," the same compound that does the work in black pepper and Syrah. Patrice keeps 9 hectares of Pineau d'Aunis, plus Chenin, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Gamay, and Chardonnay, planted on flint-rich clay over limestone bedrock. Mineral, baby! The river works as a thermal regulator and the surrounding hills block intensity of the northern winds, all of which adds up to a farmer's picture perfect: a long, slow, even-tempered growing season.

The wine itself is named for Patrice's son, Pierre François, who alongside brother-in-law Florian is now stepping into the ninth generation at the domaine. Around 75% Pineau d'Aunis with Pinot Noir and a touch of Gamay, all from 25-year-old vines. Direct-press, fermented and aged in tank for a few months. Light, juicy, peppery, chillable, perfection for Spring!

Why'd we pick it?

Pineau d'Aunis is an unsung hero that I've loved for years and years. It's peppery, aromatic, and a wonderfully strange grape that's always kept a low profile in the states. Patrice himself and his farming are quite timeless, which is a value that is always refreshing, especially in elegant, meaningful wines. This bottle specifically is such a perfect choice for the Spring. Light but with just enough grip around the edges for the chillable-red weather.

Field Notes

• Tastes like: Crushed raspberries from the garden and red currant with a mid palate laser beam of cracked pepper. A smidge of thyme and pomegranate, maybe?
• Serve it with a chill, 55-60°F is excellent, AKA fridge it for 20-30 minutes.

Food Pairings: It's time for your grill to a get a little attention as we head into patio weather. Pork shoulder could be a real nice start, and then throw it into some tacos with pickled red onion, cilantro, and lime on fresh corn tortillas. We also are still in the heart of stinging nettle season, and a nettle pasta with butter, garlic and chili flakes would be a real sweet move. Or, make a lil' snack with some Marcona almonds tossed in smoked paprika, salt, and a pinch of cayenne.